November Outturn 2024 Feature Article
Words: Mel Hack
What If all bartenders described whisky like they did cocktails? Through flavour, a journey, vibe or feeling? The Dealer’s Choice Cocktail was arguably popularised by Sasha Petraske and his Milk & Honey crew in NYC in the early 2000s, but what about the dealer’s choice whisky flight? Never heard of it? That’s probably because it only exists in two venues across Melbourne, Australia: Whisky & Alement, and The Elysian.
Amongst the Greek precinct in Melbourne’s CBD, hiding behind black curtains, you’ll find Whisky & Alement. In 2010, Brooke Hayman & Julian White pioneered Australia’s first single malt whisky bar. With a background in classic cocktails and an encyclopedia of whisky knowledge, Hayman & White used their know-how to create something that I’m 99% confident no other bar outside Melbourne does: Bartenders creating custom-made whisky flights, on the fly, with 800+ whiskeys to choose from, within a five-minute time limit, seven nights a week (and they’ve been doing it for the past 15 years).
What if we tasted and evaluated whisky differently? Took away the pomp, took away the leather armchairs, and got down to basics? How does a whisky taste? How does it make us feel? What is the origin story behind the whisky? What if we related whisky back to the people? These are all questions Hayman & White asked themselves, as they became the pioneers of the Australian whisky bar scene.
So how does a Dealer’s Choice Whisky Flight work at Whisky & Alement?
From a guest’s perspective, it’s quite simple. You can be as specific or as broad as you like when communicating your preferences to the bartender. A Dealer’s Choice Flight will set you back $60 for 4x15ml whiskies.
The type of questions you may be asked if you’re a whisky novice are the following:
- Do you have a preference of style: i.e. single malt, blended, blended malt, single pot, single grain, bourbon, rye etc.?
- What’s your flavour? Do you prefer light and floral? Sweet and decadent? Smoky and Savoury? Spicy and Dry? Spicy and Sweet? Smoky and Sweet? Funky?
- Would you like the same flavour profile, or would you like to be taken on a flavour journey?
- Do you have regional preferences: i.e. Scottish, Irish, American, Japanese, Australian, or elsewhere?
- Do you prefer drinking strength (40-48%), or is cask strength (50%+) more to your taste?
- Is there anything you dislike? Do you hate pickles? Or licking asphalt? What flavours are you looking to avoid?
If someone is completely new to whisky, they may be asked:
- What do you usually drink? Beer? Wine? Cocktails? Other spirits?
- Do you like your beverages sweet, spicy, creamy, smoky, or floral?
- Do you enjoy your spirits with a mixer? If so, which ones?
As a bartender who came from extensive high-volume cocktail bars, I was in disbelief when I first witnessed the bartenders at W&A whip up these flights like it was as easy as breathing.
How can members implement Dealer’s Choice Whisky recommendations for when entertaining guests?
- Taste, research, record.
Every time a new SMWS bottle is added to your home back bar, taste 5-15mls, and record your own tasting notes — nose, palate, and finish — you don’t need to pour yourself a large glass, remember, this is for educational purposes only. Although, I’m not your mother, do with that dram what you see fit. Identify the key flavour components, go beyond the code and discover the distillery’s DNA, read about the distillery, take note of 2–3 interesting points of difference in their history, production methods or just a fun fact. Keep those notes close by for when you might need them.
- Asking your guests the right questions.
Understanding our guest’s experience with whisky and what they usually like to drink will allow you to find the perfect whisky for any occasion. Is there a theme or something to celebrate? These are some of the things to keep in mind. Just like you would for a cocktail, or how a sommelier would pick a wine for their guests. Craft the flight around this and link themes and occasions with flavour.
- Practice
Practice this technique with some close friends and have fun — they’ll give you honest feedback. Remember, whisky is meant to be drunk and enjoyed.
Where can you find Dealer’s Choice Whisky Flights in Melbourne?
Whisky & Alement
Address: 270 Russell Street, Melbourne, Australia, 3000.
Opening hours: Sunday & Monday: 4pm–10pm, Tuesday–Saturday: 4pm-–1am Website: https://whiskyandale.com.au/
Instagram: @whiskyandalement
Since opening Whisky & Alement, Hayman and White became co-owners of The Indie Whisky Co Imports, launched The Whisky Set independent bottling company, opened a second venue called Melbourne Whisky Room, and globe trotted for the past 13 years buying, collecting, and selling whisky. Additionally, White is Head Whisky Judge for the Australian Distillers Association; in 2016 Hayman quietly became the first female to win the Australian Malt Whisky Tasting Championships — Australia’s #1 blind tasting whisky competition (hosted by the SMWS), and in 2023 they went on to win World’s Best Whisky Bar (Rest of the World), with their Bar Manager, Lachlan Watt, winning World’s Best Bar Manager at the World Whiskies Awards. It’s safe to say, they know a thing or two about whisky and cocktails, hence, the creation of the whisky flights; one may say that their success took flight.
The Elysian Whisky Bar
113 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Australia, 3065.
Opening hours: Tuesday – Saturday: 4:30pm–1am
Instagram: @theelysianwhiskybar
Website: https://theelysianwhiskybar.com.au/
Kelvin Low and Yao Wong both worked at Whisky and Alement between 2012 – 2016, opened Australia’s first Japanese pop-up whisky bar: White Oak with Hayman & White in 2016, and then went on to continue the W&A legacy by also creating whisky flights at their whisky bar in Fitzroy, Melbourne.
Editing credits: Adam Ioannidis & Joshua Bladen
This article is featured in November 2024 Outturn — bottles will be available to purchase on Friday the 15th of November at midday AEDT exclusively to members of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Not a member? Click here to learn more about the world’s most colourful whisky club.