Description
So much fruit. Sea buckthorn and cloudberries were met by apples, peaches and pears with sun-warmed raspberries and peppery nettles — all washed down with ice-cold lemonade. Elsewhere there was fresh linen in the sunshine and balls of Arran wool in a wicker basket. With water, we stayed outside in the sunshine, climbing a cherry tree to rub the leaves with our arms wafting freshly applied sunscreen as we rose into the sky. When our feet returned to the ground there were pineapple tarts, raspberries and cream and a cranachan summer trifle — sweet and juicy to the end.
The panel hiked deep into the woods for an autumnal barbecue on a conker-littered forest floor that smelt of woody embers. Next a feast of tuna, mackerel and capers with pork sausages. To finish: coffee beans, apple cider and burnt vanilla pods on tea cakes. Reduced the panel were divided, one side favouring sweetness while the other found notes of maritime salinity. There were oyster shells, smoked kippers and anchovies while on the flip side, vanilla pods, tropical fruits and toffee buttons. After six years in a bourbon hogshead, this was transferred to a second-fill Spanish oloroso hogshead.
On the nose we found jammy fruits, nuts and candle wax mixed with wet paint and cream. The palate gave us Christmas: cinnamon, oranges, cloves and chocolate, with ground pepper and chilli flakes. Diluted, its nose said summer, wafting warm car seats and sun cream, but still heavy with chocolate and nuts, plus roast venison and the smell of old books. On the palate, Christmas took a back seat while honey and vanilla burst forth with tropical flowers, lime cordial, saffron hints and summer bonfires. This was matured in a bourbon hogshead for 15 years before being transferred to a first fill American oak oloroso hogshead.
